Buying Guide
Window Draught Excluder Strips UK 2026: Which Type to Buy
Updated August 2026
Draught strip is the cheapest heating upgrade there is: around £8 a window, fitted in ten minutes with scissors and a cloth. The only thing people get wrong is the type. Match the strip to your window and gap size and it will last years; get it wrong and it peels off by Christmas. Here's how to choose.
Quick answer
Our top pick: Tapel foam strip (UPVC) / HNNHOME brush strip (wooden & sash)
£6 – £15 on Amazon
UPVC casement windows with small even gaps: self-adhesive foam or silicone P-profile. Wooden or sash windows with larger or uneven gaps: brush pile strip. Draughty single glazing: add reusable insulation film over the glass.
Check Price on Amazon →The 4 types of window draught excluder strip
| Type | Gap size | Best on | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Closed-cell foam | 1–4mm | UPVC casement | 2–3 winters |
| Silicone E/P profile | 2–5mm | UPVC and timber | 5+ years |
| Brush pile | 3–8mm | Sash and sliding | 5+ years |
| Insulation film | Glass, not gaps | Single glazing | One season (reusable types longer) |
Sash windows are their own project — see the sash window draught-proofing guide →
The best window draught excluder strips
Tapel Foam Strip with 3M Adhesive
The default choice for most modern UK homes. Clean the frame with an alcohol wipe first and it will still be sealed three winters later.
Pros
- 3M adhesive actually stays put through a winter
- Closed-cell foam doesn't soak up water
- Cuts to length with scissors
- Enough on one roll for 2–3 windows
Cons
- Not suited to gaps over 4mm
- Compresses over a few seasons
Who it's for: Standard UPVC casement windows with small, even gaps
Check Price on Amazon UK →HNNHOME 5M Brush Seal Strip
Old timber windows are rarely square. Brush pile flexes across a gap that changes from 2mm to 6mm along the same edge, which is exactly where foam fails.
Pros
- Copes with uneven and larger gaps
- Works with sliding sashes
- Doesn't stop the window closing
- Can be pinned as well as stuck
Cons
- More visible than foam
- Needs a straight run to look tidy
Who it's for: Timber casements, sash windows and anywhere the gap varies
Check Price on Amazon UK →Self-Adhesive Silicone Weather Stripping
If you'd rather do the job once, buy silicone. P-profile for gaps around 2–3mm, E-profile for 3–5mm.
Pros
- Silicone stays flexible in cold weather
- E and P profiles for different gap sizes
- Doesn't go crumbly like cheap foam
- Good acoustic improvement too
Cons
- Costs more per metre
- Profile choice confuses first-time buyers
Who it's for: Fit-and-forget sealing on windows you don't want to redo
Check Price on Amazon UK →YIMIKI 15M Closed-Cell Foam Strip
The value pick when you have eight windows to do. Press hard for 30 seconds on each run and it holds fine.
Pros
- 15 metres does a whole flat
- Cheapest per metre by a distance
- Easy to fit in cold weather
Cons
- Adhesive weaker than the 3M-backed strips
- Best on clean, smooth UPVC
Who it's for: Doing every window in the house in one afternoon
Check Price on Amazon UK →BKSAI Reusable Window Insulation Film
Strips fix the gaps; film fixes the glass. On single glazing the two together make far more difference than either alone.
Pros
- Adds an insulating air layer over cold glass
- Noticeably warmer near single-glazed windows
- Reusable, unlike shrink-film kits
Cons
- Blocks the window opening while fitted
- Slight loss of clarity
Who it's for: Single-glazed rooms where strips alone aren't enough
Check Price on Amazon UK →How to measure your window gaps
- Measure around the opening sash of each window and total it up. Add 10% for cuts and mistakes.
- Find the gap size: close the window on a strip of paper. If it pulls out freely the gap is over 2mm; if it tears, it's tight.
- Check the gap in several places along each edge — old timber windows vary a lot.
- Under 2mm: thin foam or P-profile. 2–4mm: thicker foam or E-profile. Over 4mm: brush strip.
- Do a candle or incense test on a windy day to find where the air actually comes in before you buy.
How to fit window draught strips properly
- Fit above 5°C and in dry conditions — adhesive won't bond to a cold, damp frame.
- Clean the frame with soapy water, then wipe with surgical spirit and let it dry fully.
- Stick the strip to the fixed frame, not the moving sash, wherever you can.
- Work one edge at a time, peeling the backing gradually rather than all at once.
- Butt the corners rather than stretching the strip round them — stretched strip shrinks back and gaps open up.
- Close the window and check it latches without force. If it strains, you need a thinner profile.
- Leave trickle vents open. Sealing the whole window with no ventilation invites condensation.
What it costs and what you save
| Job | Cost | Time |
|---|---|---|
| One window, foam strip | £3–£4 | 10 minutes |
| Whole flat (6 windows) | £15–£25 | 1–2 hours |
| Whole house (12 windows) | £30–£45 | Half a day |
| Professional draught-proofing | £200–£600 | n/a |
The Energy Saving Trust puts whole-home draught-proofing savings at roughly £40–£60 a year on a typical gas-heated house, so a DIY job pays for itself inside a single winter. Doors matter as much as windows — see the full doors and windows guide →
Buying advice
Buy for the gap, not the window
Tip
Do the draughtiest window first
Warning
Never block trickle vents
Frequently asked questions
Bundle
Window Draught-Proofing Kit — Under £30
- Tapel foam strip (UPVC)£7Amazon →
- HNNHOME brush strip (timber)£8Amazon →
- BKSAI reusable insulation film£15Amazon →